Khmer Cooking Class

Sues’day Chnam Thmai!

Happy New Year! According to the Buddhist calendar this last weekend marked the end of year 2555 Buddha Era. The entire city shuts down and everyone heads for their home provinces. Phnom Penh turns into a ghost town for about ten days which means we all had ten days off from work. All this time I had been planning on heading to Ratanakiri which is almost as far North as you can go before you hit Laos. It’s about a 12 hour bus ride. But once my grandfather grew ill and then passed, I decided to cancel the trip and spend some time a little closer to Phnom Penh in a province called Kampong Cham. I went out with my dear friend Sreymom to spend the holiday with her family in her village that lies about four hours north of Phnom Penh. I have heard really great things about Ratanakiri and that it is a “must see” but I wouldn’t trade the time spent in Kampong Cham for anything in the world.

Cruising on a typical red dirt road in Kampong Cham

With so many cousins, there is never less than three to a moto.

I arrived on Saturday which was the first day of the New Year. The celebration lasts 3 full days, and each day everyone in the village visits the pagoda and brings food and money for the monks. They do this each morning, and on the afternoon of the third day, monks walk through the village and bless each home one by one. I’ve been to pagoda on several occasions, but this particular trip was exponentially more intimidating as I was THE ONLY foreigner to step foot in the village. Needless to say, all eyes were on me the entire time. So yes, I was feeling particularly shy and unsure about going to pagoda and having a monk bless me in front of everyone else. I was a bit resistant, but thankful for Sreymom’s persistence that I join because it was really special.

Sreymom's Family...a small fraction of them.

Saturday evening, Sreymom and her sister took me back to the pagoda where people were dancing  and eating, and once again, children flocked to wherever I was to stand and stare and occasionally get close enough to touch my skin. When I couldn’t handle the attention any longer we went to a nearby house where we drank and danced into the night. They taught me the traditional Khmer dances, and I taught them tacky hip hop moves that they begged me to show them time and time again for the next few days.

The ultimate stare down.

Morning market desserts. Sooo yummy! Chnang Nas!

Sunday was more of the same. Wake up, take a bath which consists of putting on a sarong and dumping cold well water over yourself, eat rice, go to the market to make food for the monks, visit the pagoda, and back home for lunch and midday nap. In the afternoon we went back to pagoda for more snacks, dancing, and attacking each other with powder. During Khmer New Year, Thai New Year, and many other new year celebrations around the world, it’s tradition to attack anyone and everyone on the street with various form of water, powder, dyes or confetti. In Thailand they hold the worlds largest water fight, in Nepal and India they attack each other with colored powders, and in Cambodia they throw white powder. Motos would zoom by and the next thing I realized I would be covered in powder.

Bathing doesn't get any better than this, it's so refreshing.

Sreymom's brother and brother-in-law covered in powder. Love these guys.

The last day consisted of the most hilarious games I have ever witnessed, and the most embarrassing/funny moment of my entire life. Again, this all took place on the surrounding grounds of the pagoda (picture fair grounds). I was foolish to believe I would be standing back to watch the games. Sreymom had entered my name to be a participant. We were all standing around (me of course with a small audience of my own) waiting for the names to be called to play what is essentially the Khmer version of “hit the piñata.” Instead of hitting a candy filled paper figure, the player swings a bamboo stick at a suspended clay pot. I heard the announcer come on and knew I was in trouble when I heard the word “barang” which basically means “foreigner.”   Yup. I had to play. Before I had the chance to decline I was pulled into the ring and was surrounded by hundreds of yelling Khmer people who had never seen a westerner. The guy blindfolded me, put the stick in my hands and walked me around to disorient me while the mob chanted something I could not understand. When it was time to swing I attempted to listen to the directions that were being barked at me in Khmer. My first swing was a big whiff…and the crowd went absolutely bonkers. It took me a couple minutes (which felt like FOREVER) to get reoriented. Again, I tried to follow the crowds directions to find myself near the pot, but it wasn’t until I heard Sreymom yell “JUMP HANA JUMP!” when I swung with all my might and smashed the pot. When I took the blindfold off I must have turned as red as the flag because I hadn’t realized just how many people were watching. I won a t-shirt and 3000 riel which is the equivalent of 75 cents. It was so much fun, I was really really happy she made me do it. I felt like a celebrity. Other games, that I managed to talk my way out of, included a sack race, oiled pole climb, and two more rounds of smash the pot.

Pots suspended above crowd.

So scary, but so fun!

I wanted them to just take a picture...so instead I took one of them.

Sreymom’s house is a small but beautiful stilded house surrounded by farm land and various trees including but not limited to coconut, jackfruit, banana, and mango trees. I met about 50 people in the village that are related to Sreymom in one way or another. It was really difficult for me because none of them speak any English, and my Khmer is very limited. Sreymom didn’t always translate for me, and she hasn’t lived in her village since she was 12, so she was busy catching up with friends and relatives. Understandable. But I did find myself very quiet for large portions of the day. At times I felt really discouraged when her parents would try and talk to me and I would just look back at them with a blank stare. I found that smiling, a lot, helps with that. I found myself just wanting to be back in Phnom Penh where communication was easier. But I had to tell myself to buck up and that these people were so kind to host me, and I had to remind myself not to get discouraged or frustrated.

Sreymom's mummy making something yummy

Sreymom's parents. Such loving and welcoming people despite the language and cultural differences.

Kampong Cham, unlike much of Cambodia, is a well forested area with big shady trees that butt up next to lush green rice fields. I was amazed by the nonexistence of litter considering roads all throughout Cambodia are spoiled by plastics and Styrofoam products. The villagers of Kampong Cham work hard to keep their countryside clean and beautiful. They don’t have power or running water and they know that they are very poor, but they are incredibly proud of their province and they have every reason in the world to be so. It’s a really magical place. A four hour ride to a special place that I plan to return to some day. This adventure was just what I needed after a very difficult month.

Jackfruit tree with fruit the size of an enormous baby.

Night Market

Mom and Dad have made it to Cambodia! I’m thrilled to have them here and to show them the crazy world that I live in. So far they’ve already met many of the people who make this place so special. I took them to Night Market, which isn’t the greatest market, but it’s always packed and you have to have the sugar cane drink and check out all the fried food. Not to mention it’s fun to look at the photos of market thieves that got. My favorite is the guy who tried to steal the giant stuffed animal and the old guy with the smirk on his face.

Meat Man

Not great photos, taken from my balcony…but wanted to share my reasons for eating mainly vegetarian here!

All I Need

December 4 2011

4:30am – Wake up
4:50am – Call from Phivear, “Okay we leave now, common hurry up”
4:55am – Clamber into a mini bus with 16 Khmer family members
5:00am – Leave Phnom Penh for a day with the fam.
6:00a, – Watch sunrise from bus.
9:00am – Arrive at relatives house in Sihanoukville to retrieve puppy kisses and the most sea food I’ve ever seen in my life.
10:00am – Beach time, consumption of seafood, rice and fruit. Family swim session.
11:00am- More food, swim.
12:00pm – More food.
1:00pm – Pack up
1:30pm – Drive to waterfalls
2:00pm – Arrive at waterfalls and swim in clean, clear, cold, WONDERFUL waterfalls.
3:00pm –  MORE FOOD
4:00pm – Pack up and head home.
6:30pm –  rest stop and sunset
8:30pm – Arrive back at home, shower.
9:00pm – Dinner with the family. Bed.

An absolutely wonderful jam packed day with my family here in Cambodia. I am so lucky and grateful for them.

Food, Flora and Fauna

Went to the nursery this weekend to buy plants for the apartment. We actually went two days in a row because we managed to overload the tuk tuk. It was well worth it though because my little apartment is now feeling like a cozy home. Now that I don’t have any cats to chew up my plants, hopefully they will last longer than my previous greenery.

This plate is full of glorious toppings to my favorite dish in the Cambodia, Khmer Noodle. It’s so fresh and yummy and delicious and after I pronounced my love for it my friend’s aunt made it for us today. Heaven in a bowl.

Num Ansom

Labor Day / Birthday Weekend

This weekend a van load of us went down to Sihanoukville to have a little birthday celebration and time in the sun. It was a gamble going down there considering all the rain and cloudy skies we’ve had, but the weather was amazing the entire time. Most of us were lobsters by the end of the weekend, but it was worth it. We got in late on Friday night and immediately went to dinner on the beach and lit off fireworks into the ocean. I’ve learned that I cannot be trusted with handheld fireworks, I had people fleeing in every direction. After making it off the beach alive, we went out for some drinks and dancing.

The next day we slowly made our way to the beach where all we did was bask (burn) in the sun, eat squid and lobster, have our toenails painted, swim, and drink Angkor. Not a bad way to spend a Saturday.

On Sunday we went out on an all-day boat ride that took us to two islands for snorkeling and swimming. The snorkeling wasn’t the most amazing, but it was fun either way. I would definitely go back again, especially if the bartenders/cruise directors are the same…I might marry one of them. Watch out.

A very odd, drunk, European man with a long blonde pony tail insisted that I move from my seat across the boat to look at the rainbow. He declared it my birthday rainbow.

At the end of the day we painfully climbed back into the van and headed back to Phnom Penh. Having a sunburn is not easy around 22 kindergartners, especially when they all decide to jump on you at once. Lesson learned, next time I will bring sunscreen. The end.

Kandal III

This weekend was an impromptu trip out to Kandal Province. We decided to stay the night so that we would have more time to hang out and see more of the area. Makara (pictured below in the yellow shirt) grew up here and is now finishing his 4th year at a University  in Phnom Penh but returns to his village every weekend to help his mother and father in the rice fields. He was our host for the weekend and his family took great care of us by preparing amazing meals, setting up a place to sleep, and taking us around on bicycles to see the rice fields and lake.

Makara’s little brother took us fishing…none of us caught anything, no big surprise there. Then again we only gave it about ten minutes before the sun got the best of us. AAAnd then we attempted to play with the girls. Girls here in Cambodia play this crazy jumping game that involves a long stretchy band. They hold it out like you would with a limbo pole, put instead of going under it, you have to jump over it using the back of your foot to hook the band as you go over it. The string gets higher and higher until nobody can get over it. These girls can seriously jump, and are so flexible! They laughed soooo hard as Emma and I clumsily tried to play along. I swear we looked like elephants trying to jump compared to the tiny Khmer girls who can fly through the air. They put their flip flops on their hands becuase they kick their legs so high that most of the time their hands come down before their feet.

Needless to say I’m quite sore from attempting this. After fishing and playing around with the girls, Makara took us on a bike ride through the tiny village, out into the rice fields, and to the lake which only had one house situated next to it.

Pictured with me is Makara’s  incredibly wonderful mother who cooked the most amazing meals that we couldn’t help but to stuff ourselves with. She works hard out in the rice fields every day accept Sundays, so it was really nice for her to spend her free time with us.

Her amazing food:

Our cozy little sleeping corner. It actually gets quite cool at night in the countryside which was really nice compared to the sticky city.

Back in Phnom Penh..can you spot the fugitive?

Chicken Feet, hearts, and tarantulas

It’s been a while since my last post. My apologies.

Cambodian people are always soooo excited to see westerners eat local foods. I actually prefer Cambodian food over western food and I’m always willing to try the new wacky and wonderful dishes that I stumble across. Lately though I’ve had some bad luck. At night the streets are littered with portable grills and soup stands that sell just about anything. My favorites are the grilled pork rib and beef kabobs… and the noodles, and the soup and just about everything. BUT a couple weeks ago I was in a new neighborhood and thought I found a stand grilling the meat kabobs I love so much. I asked for 2 beef kabobs and the vender said to me while pointing at himself, “cheeken.” No problem, chicken it is then, I’ll have two. He gave me another look to make sure I was certain, pointed to himself again and said, “cheeken.” I smiled and paid for my two chicken kabobs and as I walked away I realized why he was pointing at himself, he was pointing at his heart. Had I just bought two kabobs full of chicken heart? No way, they were only 2000 riel ($0.50), wouldn’t a whole stick full of chicken hearts be more expensive than that? Apparently not. I got home and sat down to take a bite, and sure enough…chicken hearts. Now, if I were in the country side and my host offered me the tough little irony organs, I would have eaten them up with a smile. But I just couldn’t bring myself to eat two sticks full of blood pumpers while sitting alone in my living room.

Then again yesterday, I ordered from this great little Khmer place that cooks up something new everyday. I’ve had really good luck with them and loooove the food there. They give you a heaping pile of rice, some sort of stir fried veggie, and a bowl of soup all for $1.50. I sat down with my soup and took a couple sips of the broth. It was a little funky, and I wasn’t sure what I thought. So I started to stir it when I noticed something very large and black. I scooped it up and sure enough it was a massive, black chicken foot. I happily ate my rice and veggies, but decided hold off on the soup.

Part of me really wishes that this didn’t gross me out so much. To many people this is an absolute treat. In September I’m planning on heading out to the countryside for a week, and I’m betting I’ll have the opportunity to try some of these dishes. I’ve tried all the little critters like the spiders, grasshoppers, ants, frogs and probably a few flies by accident and found them all to be quite palatable, so who knows what strange body part might become my new favorite snack. mmmm mm.

A few of us went to a fancier Cambodian restaurant where they had tarantulas on the menu as an appetizer. We didn’t end up ordering them but I’ve had them before and they are actually quite tasty. After dinner our friend took us into the kitchen to show us just how fresh their appetizers are:

Here’s another fun picture. I haven’t talked much about the toilets here. That topic really deserves a post of its own, and I think this picture proves it. I’ll save it for another day.

I wish there was a caption under the sign reading, “not to scale” That toilet is monstrous compared to the person!

One last photo that I am posting for my Babci and Dziadzu because I’m sure they want to see me, not pictures of chicken feet, spiders, or bathroom signs. I hope hurricane Irene blows right by and doesn’t cause any trouble for you in Wilkes Berre, or anywhere for that matter. Thinking of you always, miss and love you. Send my love to Rose and the rest of the family. xoxo!

Typical SE Asian picture pose